Saturday, September 24, 2005

Living in Paris 101: I Can See Clearly Now...

I'm smart. I am, truly. They say if you have to say it, you're not smart, but I am. When I decided to live in Paris, I knew things would be different. Different cultures to adapt to, new things to learn, less efficiency, yada, yada, yada. However, I'm a doctoral candidate from one of the top universities in the nation. I passed my PhD exams on the first attempt. Okay, it was close, but so what? Sometimes I even manage to understand the archivist telling me that I have to come back tomorrow because what makes me think they have all these old documents lying around? Like I said, I'm smart. Why am I telling you all this? Because if you decide to try your hand at living in Paris, forget how smart you are. It'll save time and make things easier.

Most of us come armed with language skills (of varying degrees) and full of knowledge that comes from books on how to adapt to anticipated culture shock. Hey, I read the books. I know how to greet the butcher, baker and candlestick maker when I enter a store. I say thank you and good-bye when I leave. I got manners. My mama raised me right. I usually preface my statements by the phrase, "excuse me, I sound like a child when I talk French." Then I heard a French child speak. I don't sound like that at all. I sound like a tongue-less troglodyte.

But how many of you come fortified with knowledge of how to get a pelvic exam? Or an eye exam? That's what I thought. For us Americans, remember how, when you needed new glasses or contacts, you could run into your favorite neighborhood optical boutique - with or without an appointment - get your eyes checked, get your prescription, and have your glasses or contacts, as they say, in about an hour. And if you buy your products there, often they don't even charge you for the exam. Just try that here. After visiting 5 optical shops, it finally became clear that they weren't kidding - only exams for glasses can be done on-site. See, if you need contact lenses (and you don't have a prescription already), you have to go to an eye specialist. Sometimes a couple of times. Once for the appointment, another for the fitting, and again if the contacts aren't right. Sigh. But at home (read in the States, where you can get your appendix taken out on drive-thru and also super-size your fries), I can do it at the same place, at the same time. Well, you're not at home anymore, are you?

For those of us who can discuss the nineteenth century historical significance of race, gender and class in France (in fairly comprehensive French), how lovely to be reduced in the doctor's office to "Eye hurts. Stuff fuzzy." Uh huh, that sounds just like you'd say it in English, right? Feeling confident? Try dealing with an exasperated Ophthalmologist grabbing and opening your eye because you don't quite understand what she's saying. Or watch her smirk when you manage to stammer, "Lens feel well. Got liquid stuff for them?" "Hey missy," you want to scream, "yesterday, I managed to buy nylons that fit all by myself, and they had a crotch and everything! And I only got lost on Metro once. I ain't nobody's fool!" Forget who you were back home, my friend. It's a new day. And you probably sound very stupid.

Next up: the OB/GYN. Hopefully I can manage something more coherent than "speculum cold." But don't bet on it.

Saturday, August 20, 2005

My Life & Welcome To It!

Seriously homesick. I'm mentally tired; I miss Target. Miss grilled chicken. Miss my friends. It's been a weird August. 4 seasons -- sometimes all in one day. And yes, I'm whining and i don't care!

Spending the summer getting my dissertation organized, doing tours and hanging out. On the weight loss front, good news. I have lost 4 sizes! It's amazing how well the "no money" diet works. My gorgeous bras are too big...sigh. I'm hoping to lose 40 more pounds before I head back to California. Can you stand it?

Boy news...I have become seriously stare-worthy. It's unnerving. I guess it's my new glam look, thanks to MORI BENJAMIN, extraordinary hairdresser and stylist, recently moved to Paris from New York. If you're coming to Paris and need a new look, look no further than Mori. If you want details, email me and I'll pass his digits along. So although I'm looking awfully cute these days, still no special someone. And it's getting me down.

After 11 months here, I have finally pulled together a group of friends. Almost all Americans, but I'm working on increasing my contact with French folks. After all, I'm in Paris! It's still hard. My French has officially entered a transtion. Can barely speak at all. I'm told it's normal. Not fun to be so slow and and awkward all the time. Will I ever learn this bloody language?

Ready for fall. A new beginning, perhaps?

Friday, July 01, 2005

I'M STAYING IN PARIS!!!

Yeah, ok, I haven’t written in a while. I know, I know. You want all the skinny. Ok, I won’t be away for so long again. The last 2 months were a roller coaster and I barely had time to cry myself to sleep. Who had time to write, huh?

Well, first thing’s first. . . I’M STAYING IN PARIS! Yup. Another year. Woo Hoo! How did this happen. First, fellowships were almost a bust. Found out I was the number one alternate for the one I wanted…and didn’t get it. The other two went the way of the sands on the beach. I got department funding (thank you, God) for the fall. That left the summer. My ticket said June 22nd. It was not refundable and lost all value if I didn’t get on the plane. I had no job, my apartment had been rented for the summer and no prospects. Who came to the rescue? Who else?

My parents came up with the official “let’s support our sorry-ass daughter who will never graduate from college” fellowship. Yup, paying my way for the summer until my fellowship kicks in in the fall. My mom and dad said it was what they’re supposed to do. And yes, I bawled my eyes out. THEY ARE AWESOME!!!

Okay, I’ll update you on the last two months soon, I promise. For right now, I am staying, I am loving it and I have no ticket to come home. And I don’t care one bit right now. I’m sure next year will be another story entirely!

Saturday, April 23, 2005

Calling all Angels

Well, it’s almost the end of April and I’m scrambling to stay for longer in this maddening city I adore. Funny, what doesn’t break you makes you stronger. First of all, I have met some amazing folks coming here to visit – thanks for the meals and coffee – and finally feel like I belong. Makes the idea that I might have to leave all the more hard to take.

Been doing tours for Walking the Spirit Tours on black Paris (see the website at (http://walkthespirit.moonfruit.com) for details and to make reservations) and have been having the time of my life. I hope all of you get the chance to realize what you’re supposed to be doing with your lives and future. I believe I have found my calling. I get to combine all I love – walking in this gorgeous city (and getting exercise!), teaching (which is a passion), talking to new people who are thrilled to learn about our history here, and talking (just try and shut me up!). I can’t believe how lucky I am… Okay, calling the universe: I want to stay in Paris!

Day-to-day life here is becoming surprisingly normal. I love my neighborhood still (it doesn’t hurt that the chicken lady calls me by name!), the people here are so great, and the culture becomes more familiar with each passing day. I still make mistakes all the time, but am learning to laugh at myself with greater ease. I haven’t embarrassed myself in front of any celebrities lately (must be a record for me) and I weigh less than I have in decades. I almost don’t recognize myself. And yes, for those following my weight odyssey, I’m gorgeous! (smile) How do I know? A man on the Metro the other day called me a “goddess.” Damn straight!

The time alone – and I mean alone – has been the best and worst experience of my life. I know myself better than I did 7 months ago. And being alone with yourself forces you to collapse or face who you truly are. It’s been a ride: some things (more than I wanted to admit) I found were not all they should be in my life, and I have been working to correct them. That would have been impossible in my old life. I had too many things to distract me. Here, it’s been all about me, myself and I; that makes it harder to turn away. I am so happy that you have been on this journey with me. Your encouragement – some of the women I’ve met here or just emailed with – have made me feel so good about what I’ve accomplished. I’ll say this about black folks: they sure do let you know when they’re proud of you! So to all my new friends, grandmas, and sister-friends, I thank you.

Thursday, April 14, 2005

Waiting for Godot

Received several lovely emails from folks asking where my entries are! Nothing like being kept on your toes. I am fine; no worries. I think my lack of huge and stupid adventures means that I’m truly settling in here. Have had a great friend visit for 10 days, where I was treated to real live restaurants! We walked until we dropped and then had hot chocolate. How good is life, I ask you?

I have been helping Walking the Spirit Tours with tours of Black Paris in April and having the time of my life! I took the tours in 1997 and have been dying to work with Julia ever since. I’m hoping that it turns into something more permanent – please send positive vibes! It’s been taking a bunch of time, but for the first time in seven months, I’m feeling confident, happy and healthy! And can pay rent too! Yee Haw! And a big, big thank you to Cafedelasoul's own Robin Bates for making it happen. How lucky am I to have such wonderful black women like Robin, Monique, Julia and Kat looking out for my sorry "wanna be Parisian" ass?! Not to mention the ones back home...

Wondering about the title? Well, fellowship letters come out this month and I’m a bit insane with anxiety. Okay, I'm just insane with anxiety. Everytime I hear the front door of my building I've been whipping open the door to see if it's the postman. Scared the hell out of my neighbors yesterday! Positive results = I can stay in Paris for another year. Negative = I’m fund-less for the coming year and need to go back to California. I’ve put out to the universe that I want to stay here another year; the ancestors have been informed. But as they say in “Rudy”: we pray in our time, the answers come in God’s time.

Just a note designed to elicit heavy sighs: I have been inundated with requests for hotel and restaurant suggestions. As a student, I eat peanut butter and jelly sandwiches at home. So, much as I’d like to help, I’m not the one. My suggestion is that you find a great guidebook and find a hotel that suits your personality. Yeah, I know, not much help, but this should give you an indication that I am not the one! That said, there are several seemingly lovely 2-star hotels in Paris (if looking through the window is any indication). If you are interested in renting an apartment, I found my apartment through Lodgis.com; Fusac.com has apartment listings as well. There – all I know. Now, unless you're contributing to my "Buy Robin Parisian Bras" fund (which you are most definitely not), I have no more information! Ciao for now! Bisous!

Friday, March 25, 2005

Sick…Again

Okay, I ask you. How many times, for the love of God, can one person get sick in six months? If you’re me, apparently lots of times! Normally I get sick once, twice a year. I’ve been in Paris for six months and have been sick FOUR times! Two bad head colds in the first two months, a nasty case of strep throat in month four, and now, another frickin’ cold (with the works: chills, fever, stuffy nose, cough, etc.). The sun is shining and I’m sick. But I’m not bitter or anything.

The best I can discern, the stress of the move, the stress of all I have to do, the stress of Paris, and the actual seasons that Paris possesses -- wind, cold, snow (argh!), rain, thunder, lightening, then sun -- are constantly taking their toll on my body. It’s hard to stop and smell the roses when your nose is stuffed up. But I’m not bitter or anything.

In happier news, for those of you following my weight loss odyssey, I have officially lost two sizes! Yea. It’s all the walking. I swear, I changed Metro lines at Montparnasse and it was a twenty-minute walk inside the station to get there – not including going up and down at least 3 flights of stairs. My metro station (Abbesses) is in the bowels of the earth. The elevator gave out the other day, so I walked: all 125 steps. I was almost weeping when I got to the top. Gotta love the Paris diet, where the motto is: If you can find your way out of the metro station and you’re still breathing, you can have a croissant!

And my glorious (and expensive) new bras are going to be too big very soon. I know, let’s have a fundraiser for yours truly: Donate money so Robin’s beautiful breasts don’t jiggle excessively in Paris. Keep our freakish ebony sister in Parisian lingerie. No? Alright, that’s ok, I’m not bitter or anything! Bisous (kisses) until next time!

Friday, March 18, 2005

Le Soleil

Greetings at the end of month five! I’m so happy I could just sing. Why? Because the sun has returned to Paris! Spring is in the air – no more snow – the sun is shining and all is well. Parisians are notorious sun worshippers; there is not a seat to be had in these sidewalk cafes. But I manage to find one when I need one. Can you spell “glorious?” It’s Springtime in Paris!!!!

Met three lovely young women from USC last week and had lunch at the Amelie Café (what can I say, the food’s great). So nice to see these ambitious, beautiful black women on spring break, making Paris all their own. It took me so long to get up the courage to come here for my first trip. I’m so proud to see these young ladies tearing up the town. I spent a great afternoon with them.

Okay, so I’m supposed to be working. But how can you spend the day in a dark dusty archive when the sun is shining? So I’ve been able to download a few old books and am reading them outside. Nice trade-off. Oh, and my friends are no longer speaking English to me, or allowing me to speak it to them. Sigh. One way to practice! À bientôt!