Gifts & Love - Month Five

What an awful and amazing few weeks! My funding finally arrived – 3 weeks late, and the school has decided that I was overpaid last year and has decided to keep half of it! Paris is hard enough with the little money I have. For a moment, I had pretty much decided to pack it in and head back. And then, the most amazing outpouring of love arrived. My mother decided to forego her first trip to Paris and give me the money instead. My sister Sharon decided that since she’d been here before (yeah, right!), she gave me that money as well. And my friend (who would kill me if I mentioned her name) mysteriously put money in my account. My friend Abe covered my overdrafts from the States and saved my life! And, thanks to Monique Wells, I found a part-time job (at BonjourParis.com) doing some work on Paris that will help with dumb stuff like food and transportation (see her review of Hottentot Venus on the Cafedelasoul website)! Blessings flow, don’t they? What a humbling and wonderful life I have. So, as they say, I’m back!

Looked out the window the other day and saw snow! Snow is not my friend. Thankfully, it was short and didn’t stick. But Paris, my friends, is cold! Walking the streets – great no money fun – is hard when you can’t feel your toes. But it’s Paris, so I’ll shut up now. Research is back in high gear (easier to do when you can concentrate) and I can again marvel at the life I’m trying to create. There is no place on earth like Paris. Fresh bread is cheap (yea!); so are veggies. Just a reminder if you’re budgeting for Paris, gas and electricity are horrendous expenses; more than double what I was paying in the States. Even the phone costs more – and don’t even get me started on cell phone costs! But it’s Paris, so I’ll shut up now. Thanks for all the support; I am constantly reminded how very lucky I am. Don’t think I ever take it for granted.

Student Life & No Money

Welcome to world of being in a foreign country and having no money! I guess this remains one of the perils of having your life (bank accounts, etc.) still in the United States while you live in Paris. Five days with no money, with an overdrawn bank account, while my school funding is floating somewhere in the cosmos. I guess this constitutes that “bad” I promised to tell you. Thanks Abe, for covering my financial disaster until I can figure this out! It’s a bit hard to concentrate on research when you’re beyond broke (I literally have 2 euros). On top of all this, Paris has decided to stage a strike -- again. Metros, trains, post office, and banks are closed or are greatly reduced. Paris is known for its strikes, but knowing that doesn’t really help. I’m not having any fun at the moment – and that’s no lie. To say that I’m feeling dejected, discouraged and disappointed would be a gross understatement…I wanna go home.

Sales & Shoes

The January sales are here, the January sales are here! For those of you who don’t know, January and July are the magic months in Paris. Everything goes on sale, the stores are packed like Christmas and for the careful shopper, amazing bargains are to be had. About a month ago, I saw in the window of a gorgeous little shoe boutique (Gelati, on 6 rue Princesse in the 6th) the Italian boots of my dreams. I was mesmerized, as I always am by the perfect pair of shoes. The price, however, made me run screaming down the street (250 euros)!!

I got it in my head that maybe, just maybe, they would go on sale in January, and if the price was right, I would bring these little beauties home. Well, my friends, on day three of the sales, my friend Sarah and I ran down and guess what? My boots, in my size, for 150 euros!!! Tried them on – mmmmmmm – buttery black leather, little heel, sexy as hell! Fit like a dream. Before you can say, “hey wait, I’m a student, I can’t afford boots!” those little gems were in a sack, courtesy of a credit card! Wore them to a new café today and a nice man says, “nice boots, and nice legs to go with them!” Ah, the power of shoes to change your life!

For those of you following my weight odyssey, I have officially lost one dress size (and I’m eating good food)! And my calves are sublime (gotta love all the walking you do here in Paris). Next goal is to lose another size (about 10 lbs.) by April. Will keep you posted! And digital pictures are forthcoming, I promise!

A Week in the Life - Month Four

Rainy, cold, and windy Paris this yucky Friday. But my colleagues are returning to Paris after the holidays and it’s good to feel like I have people I know here again. Back to work in the archives after a month of illness, fellowship applications, boy drama and um, yeah, I guess that’s about it. I also think I might be turning a corner (a very small corner) with regard to my French. The other day I heard the TV and it took me a moment to realize they were speaking English. I wasn’t quite sure. So, after three months, hearing the language regularly is beginning to sound more “normal.”

Today (Sunday) was an amazing day in Paris! The weather cooperated; it was chilly but manageable. My friend and colleague returned from the States and we spent a great day walking this amazing city. Ended up near the Eiffel Tower and rambled over to the Musee Rodin. To walk the gardens is only one euro; and they are worth every little penny! It was just glorious there (not too too crowded) and the city still retains a quiet holiday feel. Not too many tourists about, so lots of space to move around. Never have four hours passed so quickly; meandered through streets I had never seen, saw new buildings and dreamed of living in them! Paris is such an expensive city, but walking up and down the streets costs nothing at all.

The ancestors and God continue to look out for me here. Research is going well, and people are put in my path that can help me on my journey. Walking into a 16th century building and trying to find materials for my dissertation -- I think this qualifies for the stuff that scares me! But I'm doing it -- and am pretty proud of myself everytime I do.

Been meeting a few folks, although not people I really want to spend time with. This must mean that I’m settling in. Two months ago, I was feeling so lonely I probably would have hung out with him anyway; now I just ran for the hills! Good to know that I’m feeling more secure and okay on my own more and more.

A couple of really nice emails from people who are reading the journal and like it. THANKS! Nice to know that my foibles and whatnot will help the next travelers, and provide some entertainment (smile). Plus, I’m beginning to think that my adventures would make interesting theater…vaudeville, that is!

And here's to you, Mrs. Robinson

Ok, fantasyland with the young boy are over. My time – as Cafedelasoul’s creator Robin so wickedly called me – as “Demi” are over! That didn’t last long, now, did it (okay, a little over a month!)? But don’t worry; it gave me tons of confidence to date my little brains out here in the City of Light and Love. If anything, I pity the next one (smile)! And “The Perils” of dating someone who works in a café you like. No more lunch café! Man…

I can’t stress enough the importance of being a “regular” here in Paris. I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again. Case in point: I was having coffee at my morning café. A group of men were at the bar when I passed by. Apparently one of them whistled at me and made some kind of “gesture.” I didn’t see or hear it. Granted, I saw one of them looking at me, but kept going about my business. The guys behind the bar heard him and told him to knock it off. Shoving began, along with mad gesturing at me. At which point, his friends stand up. At which time the regulars in the bar stand up. More shoving. The one who made the gesture starts coming toward me. He tried to approach me and asked to talk to me. By now I’m a bit freaked out. But his way is being blocked by the manager, who pushes him out of the cafe. Ten minutes later, both return and the drama ends. When I asked what happened, this was the debrief: Pierre told him that kind of behavior toward me was not okay. The problem began when the guy tried to deny he’d done anything; and when he tried to approach me. The boys in the café know that I’m in Paris alone and (it seems) have taken quite a big brother-type of role toward me during my time here. While I consider myself completely capable of taking care of myself, I also admit it feels good knowing others are looking out for me!

New Year’s Eve. I was really concerned about being on my own during the holidays and my fears were simply unfounded. The night was amazing. My friend Alex suggested dinner, which was such a thoughtful thing to do. He’s a sweetie who should have been out painting the town red! But we had a nice dinner at my place (and champagne), cheese (and a nice champagne), and a bevy of desserts (and wine!) and talked until the wee hours of the morning. I really enjoy the opportunity to understand how the French see America and Americans, and to talk about politics, art, relationships, whatever. I’m starting to feel like I have a place in Paris, and starting to make French friends like I wanted. Now it’s back to work!